Injera to Ful

Descending the mountain pass to the border town of Metema the excitement of a cuisine other than injera, injera or injera was soon overshadowed by the wall of thick hot air that enveloped and sucked us into Sudan.

Injera formed such a big part of our experience in Ethiopia that it deserves a mention. It is a giant fluffy pancake served on a pizza-size metal dish and comes with whatever meat is available doused in spicey-as-hell berbere. Ethiopians eat with their hands so, after washing up, you tear off a section of injera with your right hand (your left hand is generally considered as the hand used to wipe your bum and therefore has no place at the table) and then attempt to scoop up the meat dish and secure it safely down the hatch without dropping it in your lap.

I remember being so grateful for actual flavor in our meal after Kenya’s somewhat bland Nsima/Ugali, beans and spinach. It was definitely a case of be careful what you wish for! Injera should come with its own warning sign: ‘Unsuitable for tourists unless you welcome the inevitable evacuation that naturally ensues’. Although not as titillating on the taste buds, Tibs (simple injera with meat and veg) is a much safer option.

Upon crossing the Ethiopian/Sudanese border, the contrast between the two countries was instantly noticeable although Sudan had nuances of its own. We no longer have locals begging or hanging on the car craning their necks to get a good peek at Kaspuur’s load and are pleasantly surprised at how welcoming everyone has been, especially of the American contingency.

So far the Gummi Bears are thoroughly enjoying Sudan. We were all familiar with falafel and schwarma, but our first meal of Ful saw us mmm’ing and ahhh’ing all the way to Gedaref where we spent our first night in Sudan. This is also where we had our first lessons in the Arabic culture. The lokanda (communal hotel) would not entertain the idea of men and women sharing a room and we were promptly led to our rather pricey rooms – ladies in one and men in the other. I have received reports that Danny and Campbell spooned but this is unconfirmed ;) Just teasing!

Apart from the yummy food and welcoming locals, Khartoum has surpassed our expectations in its infrastructure and development. Brilliantly constructed bridges line the White and Blue Niles and massive glass hotels and office blocks dot the city skyline. However, most impressive has to be the existence of a STEERS! Aaaah-haaa!!! Oh, watch out for Sudanese news as they are likely to report juice shortages once Campbell has left the country. He has become best friends with every juice vendor from Khartoum to Wadi Halfa.

Sudan requires that you register with the police in every town that you stay in. After the first registration fee in Khartoum all the rest are free and merely an irritating formality. Although tour books say it is optional, we have found out it is essential to register to take photos in the country. Weird, but hey.

Every Friday Khartoum provides the amazing spectacle known as Suffi dancing/whirling dervishes which are utterly mesmerising and a little intimidating to watch. A plethora of Sudanese gather outside a mosque forming a circle around their religious leader, his servant and drummers. Rhythmic arm movements and chanting works the crowd up into a religious frenzy and those totally overcome by Allah's presence break from the circle and begin whirling, dancing, gesticulating and even on occasion biting themselves. The religious leader is heavily laden with beads and a bright green outfit and is so revered that his sweat is mopped with tissues that are then burned with incense and blown into the faces of the crowd. It is believed to be good luck if you breathe in this smoke.

A whirling dervish >>>

The religious leader >>>

The religious leader's servant >>>

A follower so overcome as to bite himself >>>

Even the young are inspired >>>
We also visited a souk (market) in Khartoum. So many colors, flavors and smells.

Shoes anyone? >>>
Spices >>>

After several relaxing days at the Blue Nile Sailing Club in Khartoum we headed into the unforgiving Sahara desert and it's many ruins.


The view from our campsite >>>